Oil Pan 2.0

Time to change out the oil pan (the least favourite things I like to do)….

Why the change? This pan is designed for drag racing where it is unlikely you will see lateral G forces.  Oil starvation sucks.

The old pan (you kind of see a film of gasket maker).

PICT0042

The good part is that it allows me to have a quick look and see if anything looks out of place.

DCF 1.0

Gord G. gave me some great advice on how to remove the oil pan (covered in honda bond) – it was still a pain in the arse. The moroso drag race oil pan didn’t use a gasket so, it was a film of Honda bond (gasket maker) in it’s place. The key is you have to be meticulous in removing all of the gasket material. Any little bits left can be potential to engine failure as it can clog those tiny oil lines.

Mmmm new parts…

Pan comparisons

PICT0076Left is the drag race pan; Middle is the new pan; Right is the factory OEM pan

The height difference from OEM to Stock (hey, just be thank full I took a picture although a measuring tape would have helped)

PICT0071

For fun this is the 420a Oil Pan for comparison

The 420a oil pan is the middile pan; the one with the honey comb reinforcement + heat dissipation . The Mitsu and Chrysler engineers really did a good job on the oil pan. It would be interesting if Moroso would ever reinvest in R&D.

DCF 1.0My ghetto setup to stop oil from dripping on to the floor.

Trap doors and lower pickup 🙂

A few test fits and then it’s a few daps of Honda bond the pan is installed.

DCF 1.0

 

12ft/lbs for each bolt.

With the new pan being a “road race” setup this should provide a lot better management. I wish I had some fabrication skills for this, but I don’t so until I get a welder this is what i have to contend with. Hopefully, this subsides my worry about oil starvation and aerating oil (I migh have to think about a dry sump…. that’s just crazy talk).

Installation hints:

If anyone (doubtful) is looking at this resource for install:

  • clean oil pan – varsol (or simple green) and then brake cleaner + compressed air to blow it dry
    • Dawn detergent soap would be  a substitute for a poor mans garage,
  • clean and clean again
  • Use a flat edge razor to remove any gasket or dirt

Extra Notes:

  • 11lbs/ft for the oil strainer
  • 12lbs/ft for the oil pan bolts
  • On the right side of the oil pan (oil pump) add some gasket maker to that side
  • Sealing return lines, temp sensor –> you only need to seal the last 2 or so threads (more is not recommended as it can break off)
  • No more Honda bond 🙁

 

 

Related Post

Leave a Reply